Category Archives: Being there

Outside Copenhagen: Rungsted Kyst & Roskilde

People who know me wouldn’t believe that, but this morning I was ready to rumble at 8 a.m.! :-D On my journeys I often run around the whole day and get really tired in the evenings, so I am sleepy way before midnight, not long after midnight like at home … I also wanted to do some trips today (last day of my 72 h Copenhagen Card), so I had to be early. As I missed Karen Blixen’s home on my first day, I didn’t this time.

Rungsted Kyst Harbour

Rungsted Kyst Harbour in the sunshine

I took the train to Rungsted Kyst (take care, some trains to Helsingør don’t stop everywhere, as I had to find out the hard way) and started looking for the museum. A sign led the direction and said it was about 1,2 km. A second sign pointed directly into the woods and I immediately started feeling like the hobbit on his big adventure trip (Bilbo, not Frodo) … If you like taking a walk in pure nature, visit Copenhagen! ;-) The Karen Blixen Museum is surrounded by beautiful gardens, paddocks and a natural forest (where also her grave is located), which I all saw coming from behind the building. In front of it you have Rungsted’s harbour, where I had a delicious lunch at Umi’s (Sushi Bar) later that day. But first of all I learnt at the museum that Karen Blixen had been a great painter, too. In her house there is a permanent exhibition showing some rooms the way she left them and many of her drawings and paintings. There also was a performance of some other artists called “Not About Karen Blixen”. I had to buy her book “Out of Africa” and started reading it right away at the terrace of the café … It’s nice actually!

I also went to Roskilde, which is a nice small town west of Copenhagen, and famous for the Roskilde Festival. I saw Roskilde Cathedral, the Viking Ship Museum, and some great shops! ;-)

Converse Chuck's Rockabilly Edition

How do you like my new Chuck’s?! I love ‘em!!!

Leave a Comment

Filed under Being there

Lost & Found: Copenhagen’s Little Mermaid

In the end I saw more than one mermaid, and I also saw some other pretty scary sea creatures as well …

The Little Mermaid in Shanghai, Video installation by Ai Weiwei in Copenhagen

Where the Little Mermaid usually is located you can now see a live broadcast of the Denmark Pavilion during World Expo 2010 in Shanghai. But first of all I went to Tivoli, where a replica of the original Little Mermaid can be seen. The Tivoli Gardens are one big loud dazzling fun fair, perfect for kids and their grandparents, too much for me. I had some fun when I wanted to feed the fish (there were some big carp inside a small lake), but ALL the birds there (pigeons, seagulls, coots, ducks, geese, and sparrows) were much faster and I believe no fish ever got any piece at all. A duck tried to eat my shoe and one pigeon even sat on my hand to get the stuff! :-D Right there you could see the replica, but it was a little dull, to be honest. At the Chaplon Tesalon i Tivoli I had probably the best chai served outside central India: it was really hot and I really like it hot and sweet! ;-)

After that I took a walk to the harbour and had a look at the close Kastell, too. It was a very windy day, but I love that winds coming from the sea. Had a nice late lunch at “Sommerhuset“, the only restaurant around, (great sandwich, great beer, great waiter), and walked on to the place where the Little Mermaid should sit on her stone in the sea. And there I found Ai Weiwei’s nice piece of art … (see picture above)

Planning to visit Denmark’s Aquarium I took the suburban train to Charlottenlund. It was quite a walk through a forest and a park (you’ll always find the first two signs showing the direction, but after that you are on your own … I found that out soon), and when I arrived I was the only guest. On Wednesdays they are open ’til 8 p.m., maybe not many others did know that. The building is quite old and they are planning on building a new Aquarium, which is to open in 2013 close to the airport. I really liked the exhibition, although it’s not that big you probably expect it to be. They have pretty poisonous creatures like the White Blotched River Stingray from South America, or many different beautifully coloured Sea Anemones, and also some pretty cool Sea Turtles, which are not dangerous at all. ;-) But the animal which impressed me the most was the Japanese Spider Crab: They can have legs up to a length of 4 m, so a grown man can stand under such a thing, which makes it the largest arthropod in the world! Before leaving I took the advantage of the Touch Pool, where you could touch little sharks, crabs and anemones, and had a chat with the guy working there. One day I’ll have to do whale watching … and I will definitely come back when the new Aquarium has opened. :-)

Leave a Comment

Filed under Being there

Day Two Or Where Is The Mermaid?

I did sleep well (although my room is in-between an always giggling group of Danish couples in their fifties), I really enjoyed a nice breakfast (although I was a little late), the weather is wonderful … but I just found out that the world-famous Mermaid is gone! Unbelievable! After 96 years in Copenhagen’s Harbour the Little Mermaid has left her hometown for World Expo 2010 in Shanghai … :-D

Little Mermaid in Copenhagen

“The Little Mermaid in Copenhagen” (Photo by Andreas Köckeritz/pixelio.de)

Well, they say something about Ai Weiwei art instead, and I really like his work, so nevermind! :-P

Leave a Comment

Filed under Being there

First Day In Copenhagen

There are some things to love about Copenhagen: For example the short distance between the airport and the city center. It’s only 15 minutes by train from Kastrup to Copenhagen Central Station. There are some budget hotels quite close to the Central Station, for example mine (Absalon Annex) is just a 5 minute walk away. Most people in Copenhagen are very stylish, as can be seen on e.g. copenhagenstreetstyle.dk or styleclicker.net. The tourist website visitcopenhagen.com is great, too. While I’ve decided to follow my nose for real this time and buy no guidebook in advance, I’m very grateful for all the information on the Internet. And I’m already in love with my neighbourhood Vesterbro (scroll down and take a look at the nice video on their website) …

Nyhavn in Copenhagen

Nyhavn, Copenhagen” (Photo by Rosel Eckstein/pixelio.de)

I arrived this morning at 8 a.m. and though having a long second breakfast it still was only 10 a.m. after my third coffee. The stuff at the Absalon Annex was so kind and let me check in very early, so I used the time for a little nap. :-) After I woke up I decided to stroll around and my nose led my to the beautiful Nyhavn area. Did I mention before that I adore cities by the sea?! ;-)

Nyhavn in Copenhagen

Nyhavn, Copenhagen” (Photo by X-Ray-Andi/pixelio.de)

Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen

Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen” (Photo by epmuts/pixelio.de)

New Royal Opera in Copenhagen

“The Copenhagen Opera House” (Photo by Hans Dunker/pixelio.de)

I passed Tivoli (and wondered what it was), too many shopping streets (with too many German tourists), fed some cool blue-eyed black bird close to the Royal Danish Theatre with small grapes while I was eating the big ones, took a look at the Copenhagen Opera House, saw some Royal Guards marching, and a beautiful church, and some strange houses at Store Kongensgade. I also wanted to see the Karen Blixen Museum (I love “Out of Africa”, well, the movie …), but when I finally arrived in Rungstedlund, it was too late, the Museum was closed already. Maybe another day!

Danish Royal Guard

“Danish Royal Guard” (Photo by Hans Dunker/pixelio.de)

1 Comment

Filed under Being there

Tel Aviv Beach

This morning I was struggling with the decision of booking a day trip to Masada and the Dead Sea for tomorrow or not. On the one hand I’d like to see these places, on the other hand there are only few days left in Tel Aviv and I’d love to spend every minute at the beach. I really love it here and have yet decided I must come back! And to be honest: it’s okay to stay all day long on your own at the beach reading a good book (currently I’m reading the great “Time Will Tell” by Mira Magén, a famous Israeli writer, and the story takes place at Tel Aviv beach), but I like it much better to share the experience of travelling to interesting places with someone. For my Mum already told me she liked the idea of going to Israel with me and she also is absolutely into religion, I’m planning on coming back with her, and doing all the stuff together I’ve missed this time. So, I will stay in Tel Aviv the rest of the time, which feels perfectly alright to me. My favorite beach so far is the Metzitzim with a real nice beach bar (great music) … and what can be wrong about chilling in the sun ogling the surfer boys or topless joggers? :-)

2 Comments

Filed under Being there

Jerusalem – Holy City

I went to Jerusalem today and I have to admit I’m overwhelmed! My first thought was “Moloch” (in German we use this expression for a huge, crazy, somehow ugly city, in English the phrase might be “Behemoth“). Unlike Tel Aviv Jerusalem was very crowded and very loud the moment I left the central bus station, and I almost immediately got lost. But let’s start with the easy part: my colleague told me that there was no need for the offered tourist trips, the guy at the reception told me a guided tour was highly recommended, for Jerusalem is no easy city. Well, I wanted to stay independent (and I hate to get up early in the morning! ;-) ), so I decided to go on my own. The buses to Jerusalem start at Tel Aviv Central Bus Station, the largest central bus station in the world. In order to get there I had to take bus line no. 4, which is served by so called “Sheh-Roots” (I hope I didn’t misspell it), van-sized taxis that stop anytime on their route when you want to hop on (you have to wave) or hop off (just tell the driver). It costs the same as regular buses (5,80 NIS), and when you want to pay the driver, but sit in the back (he drives on the second you are in, you better sit down quickly), you just hand your money from one passenger to the other, your change comes back the same way. Very nice! While entering the Central Bus Station your bags will be checked, but no worries, it’s all for your security. Inside it’s not so easy to orientate oneself, when your’re not used to such big stations. Luckily I knew that “Egged” is going to Jerusalem, otherwise it would probably have taken me hours to find the right floor. So I just had to buy my round-trip ticket (33,50 NIS), and off I was!

It takes about 45 minutes to get from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem by bus, but this was not enough time for me to get ready. I guessed, Jerusalem would be no problem ’cause I found Tel Aviv very easy to walk around and find places I was looking for. But Jerusalem is a little bigger than I thought, you don’t have the sea for orientation, and the heavy road works next to the bus station (and in fact all along Jaffa street) drove me nuts. It took some time to find my way to the Old City and Jaffa Gate, and when I arrived I really wanted a guide! That was exactly the same moment I saw a guy in a red shirt holding up a sign that said “Free Tour” in capital letters … :-) www.neweuropetours.eu offer tours in many cities (for detailed information check their website), and I was glad to be in the right time in the right place, so I joined the free 3 h Jerusalem Tour. Our guide Kobi took us through all four Old City quarters, we saw the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Western (Wailing) Wall, Temple Mount with the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque, the in our days “underground” Roman Cardo, had an incredible rooftop view, and so much more! After such an amount of holiness all I could do was have dinner in the Rehov Ben Yehuda pedestrian area and then walk back to the central bus station … You definitely need more than one day to explore the Holy City, there is so much to see and learn, and I do recommend a guide: Will come back one day!

Leave a Comment

Filed under Being there

Laid-Back In Tel Aviv

Could not pick myself up to do some tour (Jerusalem or any other), just wanted to explore Tel Aviv, maybe find the city’s hot spots and hang out. Checked out Rothschild Boulevard, Sheinkin Street, Carmel Market. Had a lovely Moroccan meal (Shakshouka, eggs with spicy tomatoes served in a pan) at a lovely café and finally started following my nose. This led me to some nice and interesting areas of Tel Aviv: Florentin, Neve Tzedek, and Kerem HaTeimanim. And that’s quite it about my easy Sunday morning, afternoon, night …

Leave a Comment

Filed under Being there

Drunk In Tel Aviv

Some more google research yesterday and I decided to visit Maxim, a club which was recommended by www.drunkintelaviv.co.il. To cut a long story short: I had a very nice night out and I skipped the “Bauhaus – The White City” tour … :-D After recovering from clubbing I wanted to see Jaffa, the old part of Tel Aviv, and I decided to walk there alongside the esplanade, which took me about an hour. As I already mentioned yesterday, it was quite warm today, but it started to rain in the middle of my walk, and desipte hooded sweatshirt and umbrella I got pretty wet. Not very nice! So maybe because of this I had no endurance to explore Jaffa longer, but it also was quite boring with very few people on the streets (the rain?). I had read that this old part of town is known for great arabic restaurants and the people of Tel Aviv spend their evenings there … Well, I didn’t find one or the other. It might be that I have just been to the wrong aera, but Jaffa ain’t that big, I believe. So I ate my falafel, passed the most famous bakery in town, made my wish at the wishing bridge*, and headed back to Ben Yehuda Street.

* There’s a legend, that your wish will come true when you hold your zodiac sign (they’re all on the bridge) and face the sea while you make it. Me gusta!

Leave a Comment

Filed under Being there

No. 1 City I’d Like To Live In: Tel Aviv

Let’s start with a big WOW! When I went to the beach today I crossed an uphill park and the first sight at the sea from there nearly made me cry … Guess I’m just made for living in a place by the sea! The tourist visa lasts for three months, doesn’t it? ;-) Spent some hours on the beach reading a crazy/great book about praying the rosary mostly. I’m neither Catholic nor very religious, but the auther has the gift to inspire the reader and it was the first time in my life I was a little sad that the former pope (John Paul II.) had died … I bought this book because it’s called “Heiliges Land” (The Holy Land) and I thought it would be the right book for my journey. I like Paul Badde, he’s a good writer. And it’s lovely to read on the beach, any book I guess …

Well, it’s also winter here in Israel, but if that means 27° C (forecast for tomorrow) I’ll better be starting to love wintertime! When I had dinner at a great fish restaurant (Benny Hadayag, recommendation of my colleague) in the port area (Namal), I was kidding about the weather with two men sitting next to me. One told me it had been on the news two days ago that Wednesday night would be very cold, the coldest night for a long time in Tel Aviv … like 11° C! :-D The meal was unbelievable delicious with 13 starters (really!) and a yellow snapper filet as main dish. I could tell that this was the best fish restaurant around, ’cause it was crowded with locals, always a good sign. I can’t compare prices yet, all I can say is: it was worth every Shekel!

Right now I’m planning my Friday night in Tel Aviv keeping in mind that I’d like to do some sightseeing (free guided tours) tomorrow morning … :-)

Leave a Comment

Filed under Being there

Arrival At Tel Aviv

What a day! When I woke up this morning (quite early by the way) and took a look out of the window I knew there was trouble to come. A heavy snow storm had reached Munich over night. First I took a look at the website of Munich airport, my flight wasn’t canceled, so far so good. But the website of the city’s public transportation said that buses would be late. Okay, called a taxi for getting to the next train station just to be told that there were no trains at all leaving for the airport because of the snow. I decided that I didn’t want to miss my flight and like to take the taxi all the way to the airport (which cost me 65 euro!). Thank god the highway was free. Being at the gate very early then (10 minutes to 8 o’clock, flight time 10:25 am, security number 005, meaning that only 4 people had checked in before), I found out that I will have to spend the next hours in a tiny waiting hall with nothing (neither stores nor cafes) but a tank in front of the building. Well, at least I talked to an interesting guy (dual citizenship: German/Israeli) who had been based in Israel as a soldier for 18 years when he was younger but now visits the country again for the first time in 20 years!

Our flight was delayed for about an hour because of bad weather conditions, but meanwhile a cafe had opened at the gate and after a latte and a tuna sandwhich I didn’t care much. Tuifly is also a low cost airline (I paid 99 euro for one way Munich-Tel Aviv), but everything was very nice (free magazines, drinks, and a hot meal).

Arriving in Tel Aviv one hour later than expected (4 pm) I was a little worried, because I didn’t book an ordinary hotel but an apartment with check in times from 9 am to 5 pm … I had to wait for my luggage, couldn’t get through when I called the reception, had no trouble at all at the customs, took a taxi again (about 25 euro) … and was there too early. :-D But just because the owner of Ben Yehuda Apartments was in hospital and we (me and some other guests) had to wait for his substitute. When I finally opend the door to my apartment I was surprised, and happy! I have a whole flat of my own, it looks exactly like the photos on the internet (Suite Type D) and the price ist great: 31 euro per night! From now on I’d like to rent an apartment in every town I visit, you completely can’t compare this to a hotel or guest house. After leaving my luggage at the room I went to the next supermarket and bought stuff for dinner … and breakfast, just like I lived here. This made me feel at home right from the start. The only thing I miss is a bunch of friends, there is enough space for at least three more people here! :-D

After a short rest around 8 pm (it had been a long day so far) I got up again, because I had to see the sea. Ideally it’s just a 5 minute walk to the marina and the beach and even at 10 pm it was wonderful: still 17° C with a light breeze. There were very few people at the beach which I really enjoyed … until a guy came directly to me and kind of forced me into a chat and didn’t leave me alone. He was okay and the situation wasn’t dangerous, but I just wasn’t in the mood for this. There are cute guys in town, I’ve seen some so far, but at night alone at the beach … no thank you! It reminded me of my visit to Istanbul in Oktober 2008, which was very nice, but somehow annoying that every next 5 minutes another bloke wanted to marry me. :-P So I stopped my walk there and went back to more lively streets. Bought a bottle of wine at a supermarket with a security guard and went back to my great apartment. Only access to the internet isn’t stable, tomorrow I will ask the stuff for help …

Right now I’m drinking red wine and eating olives, which reminds me of doing the same with one of my cousins on the first evening of another nice trip to … damn, I can’t remenber, where we went and I’m also starting to mix things up. Have I travelled too much already? No way! ;-)

By the way: I did the same thing (drinking wine and eating olives) with a good friend just yesterday in Munich. It was the first evening of the Spanish lessons we started to take (I love it!) and after the course we went to Bodega Dali, a really nice place near Josephsplatz (Munich). So, hasta luego, amigos! :-)

2 Comments

Filed under Being there